Chloe's new designer, Chemena Kamali, returns to roots

A model presents a creation by Chloe for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on February 29, 2024. Image: Julien De Rosa / AFP©

For her first collection at the head of Chloe, designer Chemena Kamali looked back to the 1970s of the Parisian house and the blend of feminity and bohemian chic of its then-designer Karl Lagerfeld.

"Coming back to Chloe seemed very natural to me, like coming home, and also a new beginning," said the 41-year-old German, who worked for the brand as an intern and then under the aegis of Phoebe Philo in the early 2000s.

For her first collection in charge, Kamali played with contrasts: feminine and masculine, chiffon and vinyl, powder pink and military green, white lace and black thigh-high boots.

One look that seemed to embody the collection was a floaty sheer dress under a rigid coat of black leather.

Kamali replaced Gabriela Hearst, who lasted just three years at Chloe. Her sustainability focus earned acclaim but failed to bring a major boost in sales.

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Born in Germany and trained at Central Saint Martins in London, Kamali was poached from Saint Laurent, where she was head of women's ready-to-wear.

"I want to return to the original roots of the house and build a sensual Chloe that radiates warmth and positivity," she said.