Sometimes getting an easy thing done is difficult, but getting difficult things done is easy: Carlo D'Amario
The CEO of Vivienne Westwood fashion house talks to Forbes India about the intent to offer an experience here, the significance of the Asian market, particularly India and China, and more
Carlo D’Amario toured India extensively in the 1970s while working for Italian designer Elio Fiorucci. Today, as the CEO of renowned British fashion house Vivienne Westwood, it was a dream-come-true for him to hold a debut fashion show at the Gateway of India on April 1. “It’s like having a show at the Saint Peter’s Square in Rome!” he says excitedly. “The fashion show is an excuse to do something else.”
In an interview with Forbes India, D’Amario spoke about the significance of the Asian market, particularly India and China. Vivienne Westwood has already established a presence in other Asian markets like China, Japan, and South Korea. Edited excerpts:
Q. How did you happen to join Vivienne Westwood?
I remember around 1984-85, after working with Elio Fiorucci, I had my own public relations firm, Casanova. But fashion then was not like it is now. Fashion was like rock and roll, fashion was at the beginning.
I went to Paris to see Vivienne Westwood’s fashion show at cafe Angelina and Worlds End, the first shop by Vivienne Westwood and her partner, Malcolm McLaren. They wanted to change the world with their fashion. I was a communist back then, and I wanted to change the system too. However, the punk movement was naïve at that time. I said to Vivienne in a metaphoric way, ‘The system is like a car. It has a built-in speed. However, if you want to break the system, take this car and go at 300 miles an hour, and jump 1 second before the car explodes.’ Even if she was shocked, she understood my point. After that, Vivienne invited me to London to work with her.
Q. Vivienne Westwood is a legacy brand. How do you preserve it?
I brought to Vivienne Westwood my experience in fashion, namely the significant influences of the two great masters Elio Fiorucci and Giorgio Armani in my career. Elio Fiorucci, not as a traditional designer, but as someone who brought people together and fostered creativity in everyone. He had a belief that everybody is creative, including the receptionist.
I hold Giorgio Armani in high regard, recognising him as ‘number one’ and a master who states that ‘every T-shirt is a brick’, signifying that every sale builds a strong business foundation and helps towards building a house. I was initially surprised by the structured nature of Armani’s office, realising that the more creative you are, the more structures you might have.
I also admire Armani’s long-term business strategy of buying property for stability, which Vivienne Westwood also adopted. One of the first things we did was to buy property in Milan, London, Paris, New York, Los Angeles and Miami. We bought many buildings and created the structure, the solidity. For that reason, we are still here to talk with you today. Lots of the brands in Europe, in general, have offices and stores that are rented, which is a huge expense and can leave you very vulnerable. However, we own most of our buildings, which is what allowed us to survive during Covid.
Q. What influenced Vivienne Westwood’s decision to present a show in India?
The director and founder of Vivz Fashion School, Arti Rai, called and expressed her wish to do a fashion show with Vivienne Westwood. Since I have a fondness for India, I visited India and got invited to Vivz Fashion School, and I delivered a speech to the students. I told her about my desire to host a fashion show at the Gateway of India. I was informed that we needed permission from the government. It’s like doing a special show in Saint Peter’s Square in Rome. I spent 10 days, and Arti facilitated meetings with the minister, other officials, and our title sponsor, HSBC India. They were very welcoming and supportive, as we were using the show to promote Mahatma Gandhi’s khadi fabric and showcase Indian textiles. So, this is like a dream-come-true for me. Sometimes getting the easy thing done is difficult, but to get the difficult things done becomes easy.
Q. How do you envision Vivienne Westwood’s positioning in India’s competitive luxury market, and what makes the brand stand out from the established players?
Very simple. Because we are creative and honest and offer different and original products to the customer. We focus on craftmanship, quality and fair pricing. For example, we wouldn’t sell a $800 bag at $5,000. For us, it is about respecting the work that went into the product and your customer... you must offer value for money.
A capsule collection of Vivienne Westwood couture looks crafted with handwoven Chanderi silks and khadi cotton, wool and silk sourced from across India by Khadi India and Aaranya, Gwalior
Q. What are your observations about India’s luxury consumers, and how will Vivienne Westwood cater to their evolving preferences?
The market is changing, and people are spending less on luxury goods. Vivienne Westwood offers choice. People want experience. They want to travel. In fact, hospitality is what we want to get into next—a place to stay that is value-for-money in interesting, cultural places—because in the smart world, people would work three to four days a week. What do you do with the rest of your time?
Q. Does the brand plan to open any stores here, create collaborations with luxury retailers, or create an omnichannel approach in India?
Our main intention is to open a standalone boutique which will offer an experience, potentially including a café, rather than solely focusing on selling clothes. We want to create an engaging and immersive brand presence. We want to enter the market in collaboration with an important Indian group that shares our values and are in the process of working this out. Watch this space.
Q. What milestones do you hope to achieve in India over the next few years?
In this world, where everyone changes—we want to remain loyal to who we are. Loyal to our partners and putting our customers and our values in the first place or first.