A holistic safari to Sasan Gir

In the woods at Sasan Gir, in the middle of a mango orchard, sound and Lama Fera form the basis of healing therapies that energise and restore

By Veidehi Gite

Published: Aug 24, 2024 09:37:39 AM IST

Updated: Sep 15, 2024 12:02:53 PM IST

Balachandra facilitating Lama Fera, an ancient Buddhist healing therapy that he spent over a decade mastering under the guidance of Lama Krishna in Nepal.

With the monsoon tapping a soft cadence, my four-hour odyssey from Rajkot to Gir was a pursuit of the siren song of Sonorium. This rare, ancient sound practice, offered by Svaram, a centre for the craft, art and science of sound, in select locations—Auroville, Gir, and now Goa—heightens synaesthetic perception, allowing one to feel the immediate impact of sound vibrations on the body. I'm returning to Gir during the monsoon, but memories of my February visit—sighting Asiatic lions and connecting with the Siddi tribe—still linger. Six months later, the lush landscape of Gir mirrors my own inner quest for restoration. Regardless of the season, the long drive offers a chance for forest bathing, or ‘Shinrin-Yoku’, the Japanese practice of immersing in the forest. In Gir, this connection is seamless, especially when staying smack in the middle of an eight-acre mango orchard.

“As India's urban landscapes expand and mental health concerns escalate, more people are discovering the profound connection between wellness and nature. From biophilic design transforming spaces into serene sanctuaries to gardening/organic farming emerging as a preferred therapeutic practice, the ‘green wave’ is sweeping across the country, promising a holistic approach to well-being as refreshing as restorative,” says Nilay Saran, business director of 1000 Island Hotels & Resorts, which manages Woods at Sasan in Gir. Chandan SG, general manager at Woods At Sasan, adds, “We tailor holistic programmes, while combining traditional Indian practices like ayurveda with modern wellness techniques, guiding guests toward lasting wellness in a forest setting.”

Each of the 38 villas at Woods is a private retreat with stunning nature views, optimising sunlight and energy efficiency, reducing consumption by 26 percent. They’ve cut plastic use by 90 percent and employ over 40 percent of local staff. At Woods, Som Wellness is a dedicated space offering a range of experiences, from nature yoga to rejuvenating therapies. ‘Som’ isn’t just a collection of spa cabins—it embodies the Vanaushadhi philosophy, harnessing the therapeutic properties of hand-planted-and-plucked botanicals like sandalwood, camphor, hibiscus, and holy basil. These herbs grown on-site at Som Wellness are aromatised into facials and ayurvedic therapies.

Balachandra claims to be the only person in the world who facilitates ‘Mudra Kayakalpa’ therapy, making Som Wellness in Gir the exclusive destination for this treatment.

My visit, however, focused on exploring the therapeutic potential of sound at the ‘Sonorium’. Sound meditation focuses on concentrated awareness. A Sonorium, developed by Svaram Musical Instruments & Research in Auroville, creates an energy field to support meditation integration and is now available at Som Wellness in Gir. Certified healer Balachandran Kuzhikkattipurath (57), who has been with Woods for seven years, guides me into a sound chamber equipped with tubular bells, plate gongs, chime whale, sound stone, seashells including coconut shells and Areli seeds, Himalayan bowl, resonator tubes, and a xylophone. A Himalayan salt lamp casts a warm glow as I recline on ‘Nidraantar’, an acoustic bed with 50 steel cords. The sound healing begins with Om chanting, for grounding.

“Om is the collective sound of the universe,” Balachandran says. “It’s a form of vibrational energy, and since sound is also energy, it can travel. This is the principle behind sound healing—using vibrations to address certain ailments when we’re feeling down.” He then plays each instrument in a specific order for the next 30 minutes, evoking the ‘panchabhuta’—the five elements of air, water, fire, space, and earth.

Shiroabhyanga is an ancient Ayurvedic practice from India that dates back thousands of years. Combining Shirodhara and Abhyanga, this therapeutic massage promotes relaxation, relieves tension and stimulates blood circulation.

By tapping into the body's natural resonance, this modality promotes balance and inner peace. Each organ and system vibrates at a specific frequency, and exposure to harmonious sounds is believed to restore equilibrium. This 3D sound experience was immersive, with each tone stirring a different emotion within. “People react differently—some cry, others laugh, and some have entirely unique emotional releases,” Balachandran says. The therapeutic sounds of nature balance the body's energy centres, or chakras, supporting healing on multiple levels.

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As it turns out, Balachandran is not only a healer but also a Lama, deeply invested in Buddhist practices and healing objects. The following day, clad in his crimson monk robe, he introduced me to ‘Lama Fera’, an ancient Buddhist healing technique. ‘Lama’ means monk and ‘Fera’ means skill or technique. Thousands of years back, facing harsh Himalayan conditions, monks sought remedies to protect their health. Guru Padmasambhava, revered as the second Buddha, constituted ‘Lama Fera’ as a vast repertoire of a healing system designed to protect the monks.

The Sonorium by Svaram at Som Wellness is a sound healing space that creates an energy field to support wellness and balance the chakras. Rooted in the Panchabhuta philosophy, it harnesses the five natural elements—earth, water, air, fire, and space—for holistic healing and integration.

As he spoke, he produced a bodhi mala and a crystal wand, the traditional tools of Lama Fera that he’d be using. In ancient times, human bones from powerful Lamas were used, believed to be charged with spiritual energy. When a Lama passed away, their bodies were not given a traditional funeral but were left for birds. After a week, practitioners would retrieve the bones. These were later replaced with crystal wands.

Today, the healing process also incorporates bodhi mala and earth sticks for grounding and protection. Balachandran then introduced me to his Dorje, also known as Kongo in Japanese—a metallic tool integral to Tibetan esotericism. “Dorje is immensely powerful,” Balachandran says, tracing its copper silhouette.

Woods at Sasan, nestled within a sprawling 8-acre mango orchard—is a fine holistic retreat to experience the therapeutic benefits of a biophilic design.

Encircled by mythical dragons, its core—the Vajra—symbolises power, with the center representing Shunya, or the void, where all energy converges. Activated by 50,000 Tibetan mantras, this tool is used in spaces and on beings, guided by specific incantations from Vajra Guru. “Lama Fera is effective as both a healing and meditative practice,” he adds. Focusing on the ‘Lava Guna’ point during meditation draws negativity into the Shunya, clarifying the mind. Balachandran learned this practice from Lama Krishna of Nepal, attaining mastery after a decade of study. Each session lasts 30 minutes, with the treatment duration varying based on individual needs, assessed through aura and physical observations. After each session, the Dorje is cleansed with mantras and bhasma.

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A delicious spread of Satvik, non-spicy cuisine at on-site Swadesh restaurant, thoughtfully tailored to my Nadi dosha.

Balachandran confidently claimed their ‘Mudra Kayakalpa’ experience is unique and unavailable elsewhere. His claim of being the only practitioner of this restorative therapy piqued my curiosity, compelling me to try it. ‘Mudra’ means gesture, and ‘Kayakalpa’ refers to life longevity. The one-hour session begins with a deep cleansing to purify energy, followed by a healing process targeting chakras and aura. “I begin each treatment with a pooja to awaken your inner power. In Mudra Kayakalpa, I energise 45 marma points and seven chakras to balance energies, address ailments, and rejuvenate tissues, especially focusing on the 30 marma points in the face,” Balachandran explains, pointing to a spot on my forehead.

He’s reluctant to reveal all 45 points but shares two—Sangamorma and Tilasakala—after some prodding. His technique targets points on the palms, feet, face, and legs with kundalini energy to promote a youthful appearance and detoxify the Pancha Kosha (Five Sheaths). “With daily sessions, you'll notice a significant change in just one week—not just you, but others will see it too. It's ideal for slowing down the ageing process,” he says. I admit, you definitely feel a shift—like someone just gave you a mega shot of green tea and flushed out all the toxins.

Som Wellness follows the Vanaushadhi philosophy by growing Ayurvedic herbs on-site and incorporating them into treatments. This cotton silk tree is part of the Som garden.

Later, during my lifestyle consultation (Vinodadi Pariksha) with Dr Suchitra Sidhartha, she diagnosed an imbalance in my pitta dosha. To counteract this, she recommended Takradhara (buttermilk head bath) and Shiroabhyanga (Ayurvedic massage), emphasising the use of oils tailored to one's dosha.

But it is also nature that grounds and restores. Gardening with Shuklaji, the horticulturist, offered a hands-on organic farming experience. Daily yoga sessions and barefoot walks through the mango orchard grounded my senses. Immersing in nature accelerates healing, as Siddhartha aptly said, “We all come from nature. We are going back to nature.” Wellness, I realised, is a holistic way of life that requires mindful integration into our routines.