Paris Fashion Week: Designer Chemena Kamali returns to Chloe's hippy-chic aesthetic

Models present creations by Chloe for the Women Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on September 26, 2024. Photography Bertrand GUAY / AFP©

Designer Chemena Kamali—who dressed Kamala Harris for the Democratic Convention in August—turned heads at Paris Fashion Week Thursday with a line of lacy transparent looks the US presidential hopeful may be a little more shy about trying.

The German creator has quickly made her mark at French label Chloe, with pieces from her debut collection in February selling like hot cakes.

Harris wore a prune-brown Chloe trouser suit for the opening night of the Democratic convention in Chicago where she took over from Joe Biden as the party's presidential candidate, having already sported a long, high-necked green caped gown custom-designed by Kamali in May.

For her spring-summer Chloe collection, Kamali threw open the windows to celebrate the brand's highly feminine hippy-chic aesthetic with billowing dresses, lace and sun-bleached flower prints.

And there was an admiring "Ahhh" from the front row when her lace corsair pants, tied delicately at the ankle, appeared.

All was light and airy, so light that at times it looked like her Chloe woman was going out in nothing more than lacy underwear and slips, an impression Kamali fully acknowledged in her notes.

"A feeling of lingerie drifts through the collection," she wrote, "and a sense of the playful in the iconic 70s Chloe bloomers."

"The mood is light, sensual and joyful," she added.

There were, however, plenty of more conservative pieces that Harris might easily dream of wearing, particularly as it seemed to tap into the breezy 1970s glamour of her home state of California.

Kamali began her career at Chloe under the influential Phoebe Philo before moving on to work with Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, who also has a thing for see-through blouses.

"I wanted to capture that longing for summer and the way summer makes you feel... that fantasy moment of the summer months when you reconnect with yourself," said the 42-year-old, who trained at London's Central Saint Martins art school.