Sarah Burton's farewell collection as creative director of Alexander McQueen took inspiration from blood-red roses for spring. It was also inspired by female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused 'ever to compromise her vision'.
Stella McCartney has been known for pushing the boundaries of sustainable luxury on the catwalk. In this collection, she leapt ahead, using plant-based, grape-based, and apple-based alternatives to animal leather and regenerative cotton, wool, and yarn made from seaweed.
Saint Laurent's opulent nighttime show featured a pilot aesthetic, safari-style jumpsuits and cargo trousers inspired by female aviation pioneers Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland. The typically masculine look was feminised with waist-defining leather belts, oversized gold jewellery and towering stilettoes.
The Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons went avant-garde with a joyful sense of play, expressed through bulbous proportions and shock of texture. "To break free of the gloomy present," Rei wrote of her collection, "I hope to present a bright and light future."
Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a largely monochromatic palette of straight masculine jackets, pleated skirts and plenty of knitwear broken up by unexpected, breezy prints. The show was wrapped around a video installation by artist Elena Bellantoni referencing unconventional women, typically considered dark or dangerous.
Gothic elegance rang through Rick Owens' vision of a dark universe ignited by a tinted fog and cinematic flair. Oozing with futurism, the volumetric curved garments, lattice-like embellishments and leather bottoms in bold red, burgundy, and pink embraced the dystopian age gladly.
Despite the dramatic robbery that saw dozens of its outfits stolen just ten days earlier, the French label Balmain pulled together an exuberant show full of unabashed primary colours, shiny vinyl-style materials and elaborate flower arrangements.
Junya Watanabe's latest androgynous creations featured purposefully deconstructed tweed and denim garments pulled and frozen at the waist with elongated sleeves and upright collars, an artistic masterclass in creating a sculptural universe of sorts.