Despite a rich tradition of mithais, Indians are slowly acquiring a taste for a Parisian dessert, one bite at a time
Chandni Nath Israni, who holds the India franchise for storied Parisian macaron-makers Laduree, at their Khan Market outlet Image: Amit Verma
In January 2022, in the midst of the Omicron wave of Covid, Chandni Nath Israni, who heads the lifestyle vertical for the Delhi-based real estate company CK Israni Group, received an unexpected call from Kolkata. “A customer informed us he was flying down in his private jet to pick up Rs50 lakh worth of macarons,” says Nath Israni, who has brought iconic Parisian macaron brand Ladurée to India. “We delivered the consignment at the private hangar at the Delhi airport, and he flew back immediately after.”
Nearly three and a half years later, seated at a Ladurée salon at Mumbai’s Jio World Plaza, Nath Israni chuckles at the memory. But, back then, at a time business sentiment—especially in F&B—was reeling from two years of sporadic Covid-induced lockdowns, the order vindicated her faith: That a country known for its rich tradition of mithais still had an appetite for a super-premium French dessert.
Founded in 1862 in Paris’s Rue Royale, Ladurée has grown into one of the most celebrated names for luxury patisserie. It was here in the 1950s that Pierre Desfontaines, the grand-cousin of founder Louis-Ernest Ladurée, is said to have imagined the world’s first macaron—two delicate almond meringue shells filled with creamy ganache—that would go on to win over gourmands around the world.
But Ladurée’s India debut came at an ominous hour—Nath Israni signed the franchise deal with president David Holder in May 2020, two months after the first Covid lockdown was announced. With business at a standstill and shops shuttered, she was often confronted with a question: Who will splurge on a macaron that’s just a tad bigger than your average Rs10 coin and, back then, came for Rs225 apiece? “When we opened our first outlet in Delhi’s Khan Market in September 2021, as the Delta wave gradually waned, there was a kilometre-long queue outside the store. That was your answer to the question,” she says.
While the company had a slow start in India, tempered by the aftermath of Covid, it has since picked up momentum. Ladurée now sees a 20 percent year-on-year growth, and earns nearly 65 percent of its revenues from macarons. During this period, it has launched nine outlets in three years—“this after it took us one full year to open our second outlet after the Khan market one,” says Nath Israni.