Nocturnum by Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna: Finding the celestial in couture
The collection for men and women blends traditional and modern elements to embody the duo's vision of meteors and stars in the night sky taking organic forms before making their way to earth
The geometry of starlight and the architecture of shadows create a collection that resonates with the rhythm of the cosmos. Image credit: Hormis Antony Tharakan
In a conversation with Forbes India, Khanna talks about their creative process, bringing this collection to life and more. Edited excerpts:Q. What was the inspiration for the otherworldly vision of Nocturnum? Can you share your creative process with this particular collection?
Nocturnum is inspired by our fascination with the night sky and the beautiful transformation of meteors and stars. We envisioned these celestial bodies evolving into organic forms before they reach Earth, merging the rigid geometry of meteors with the fluidity of nature. Our creative process involved hand-drawing patterns that captured this dual nature, using rich velvets and shimmering silks to evoke the night sky and starlight. It was a challenge to balance structure and softness, but once we achieved that harmony, the collection came to life.
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We aimed to reflect the theme of light within darkness for Nocturnum with our colour palette. We introduced rich golds, especially mocha gold, which is a departure from our usual tones. These shades represent the warmth and glow of starlight against the night sky, adding depth and luxury to the collection. In terms of fabrics, we chose rich velvets to symbolize the mysterious darkness of the night, while silk satins and tulles brought in the fluidity and shimmer of starlight. The combination of colours and fabrics helped us capture the celestial and transformative essence of Nocturnum, balancing structure with fluidity.
Q. How did the use of geometric patterns of meteors influence designs in this collection?
The geometric patterns of meteors had a major effect on the designs of Nocturnum. The dynamic shapes and crisp lines of meteors, which stand for energy and motion, inspired us. We employed detailed embroidery that mimicked the pathways of meteors, layered textures, and geometric cuts to bring this concept into the designs. This gave us the opportunity to capture the spirit of these heavenly bodies, combining movement and detail to produce compositions that are at once grounded and otherworldly.
Q. What were some of the challenges when attempting to capture the essence of this collection? Did you use innovative methods to bring it to life?
Creating the Nocturnum collection for men and women was all about striking a balance between structure and fluidity while remaining devoted to the celestial motif. We updated traditional formal attire for the men's items by adding long tails and pointed cut-outs that mimic the exact, angular outlines of meteors. We concentrated on combining delicate aspects with structure in the women's designs, such as the asymmetrical dresses that reflect the stars' slick flow across the sky.
We employed methods such as exquisite stitching, three-dimensional embroidery, and metallic threads to replicate the shimmering trails of meteorites and add texture and motion to bring these images to life.
Nocturnum features clean lines and the complexity of hidden details in rich tones.Image credit: Hormis Antony TharakanQ. How did you merge tradition with innovation?Nocturnum combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design features, so fusing history and innovation. Our artists produce rich, three-dimensional textures that capture the beauty of flowers and meteors via the use of ancient techniques like stitching and delicate hand embroidery. To give the items a futuristic edge, we also use modern shapes and experimental fabric treatments like metallic threads and geometric cuts. This keeps the essence of our brand intact while reflecting the cosmic and transformational spirit of Nocturnum.
Q. What is next for Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna?
There are several projects in the works for Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, though we are unable to disclose specifics at this time. We have some upcoming events and exhibits planned in Jaipur, London, New York, etc. with further details to be shared in due course.Also read: Dior heads to Scotland for latest 'cruise' show
Q. Can you share any anecdotes or stories about the making of this collection?
One of the most memorable parts of creating this collection was the journey itself. My team and I spent countless long, tiring nights working to bring the vision we had from day one to life. Every detail mattered, from the initial sketches to the final touches. We were driven by a shared passion to achieve exactly what we had imagined. There were moments of trial and error, where things didn’t go as planned, but those challenges only fuelled our determination to get it right. Looking back, the hard work, late nights, and the persistence have made the final outcome even more rewarding. It’s not just about the pieces themselves; it’s about the story of teamwork, creativity, and resilience behind them.
Nocturnum blends bold lines with the mystery of the night woven into every detail. Image credit: Hormis Antony TharakanQ. Is there one piece in the collection that encapsulates Nocturnum for you?The statement cut-out antique gold top perfectly captures the essence of our collection. Bold yet refined, this piece embodies the collection’s vision of contrasts—light and shadow, boldness and subtlety.
Q. Is there something new you've learned from this particular collection that has changed your approach to design moving forward?
With this collection, we experimented with new techniques that really pushed our creative boundaries. It was a process of trial and error, refining each step until we achieved what we envisioned. Moving forward, it has definitely changed my approach to design, making me more open to innovation and less afraid of taking creative risks. Also read: Victoria's Secret reviving fashion show after six-year hiatus
Q. Since 1997, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna has explored many themes through artistic expression. Is there a particular story or theme you are waiting to explore with the right innovation technique as the fashion industry evolves?
We believe in constant evolution in our design journey, finding inspiration daily and adapting to the ever-changing fashion landscape. As the industry evolves, so do we, pushing ourselves to innovate and explore new themes that resonate with the times. This continual growth keeps our work fresh and dynamic.
