Born in 1947, destiny placed Rasesh Desai at a vantage point to discern how India brewed its journey since independence. And in the course, the septuagenerian entrepreneur found a perfect blend in Wagh Bakri
(From left) Priyam, Parag, Rasesh and Paras Desai at Wagh Bakri Tea Lounge in Ahmedabad
Image: Kapil Kashyap
Ahmedabad, July 1971. A fine drizzle began to veil the city early in the morning. However, by the time the young salesman reached for his first consumer visit on Monday, it was pouring heavily. Rasesh Desai knocked on the door. “Wagh Bakri se aaya hoon. Aapke paas 8 baje ka time tha [I have come from Wagh Bakri, and have an appointment for 8 am],” said the chemical engineer whose umbrella couldn’t take the beating of the downpour. The homemaker, who had complained about the quality of the tea she had bought a week back, was surprised at the punctuality of the salesman who was soaking wet. “Main chai le ke aaya hoon aur aapke saamne banaunga [I have got the tea and will make it in front of you],” said the 24-year-old who had joined the company in 1970 and had been religiously spending around 12 hours in the local market daily interacting with retailers, distributors and consumers.
Meanwhile, the woman was a bit reluctant to welcome a stranger. She had her reasons. The city had been rocked by sporadic incidents of communal riots in 1971. She asked her husband, a textile mill worker, to interact with the young salesman. After a few minutes, the trio landed in the kitchen. The woman now narrated her grievance. “Aapke chai main colour nahin aata hai [there is no colour in your tea],” the 35-year-old grumbled. Desai smiled. He lit the stove, poured water in a saucepan and boiled it for a few minutes. He then added tea leaves. The colour of the liquor changed, and the aroma filled the room. In the monsoon, he explained, the water is laced with chlorine to take care of water-borne diseases. Chlorine, the chemical engineer from Karnataka underlined, is a bleaching agent. “So boil the water for a few minutes, and then add tea,” he stressed. “Ab badiya chai banega [Now you will get great tea],” he smiled.
Three years later, in January 1974, Desai was on another consumer visit in Ahmedabad. This time the complaint was regarding the brew. Meanwhile the city, billed as Manchester of India, was witnessing unrest of a different kind. It all started in December 1973 when students of an engineering college protested a 20 percent hike in hostel food fees. Over the next month, the protest spiralled across the city and state, students clashed with the police and the movement snowballed into a larger socio-political protest against high food prices, corruption and state administration.
Back in the kitchen, Desai found himself in hot water. “I think your packet tea is not as good as the loose one that you have been selling since decades,” was the grouse of the homemaker. It was indeed a serious perception problem for the legacy brand, which was founded by Narandas Desai, who started the tea business by leasing 500 acres of tea estate in Durban, South Africa, in 1892. Facing racial discrimination, he was forced to come back to India in 1915. His three sons—Ramdas, Ochavlal and Kantilal—joined the business in the 1940s, and Wagh Bakri remained in the loose tea business through eight retail counters that dotted parts of Ahmedabad till 1970. Now Rasesh Desai, the third-generation entrepreneur, was trying to push the family into packet tea.
(This story appears in the 26 August, 2022 issue of Forbes India. To visit our Archives, click here.)